The Protection Against Solar UV Rays is Not a Fairy Tale !                     

  Solar UV radiation (UVA and UVB) produces reactive oxygen species (ROS), within both dermal and epidermal cells.  The reactive oxygen resulted from a dissociation of  molecular oxygen in atomic oxygen has high affinity for different organic molecules, increasing their potential for  oxidation, which can affect proteins structure, causes local inflammation and initiates several unfavorable skin cell reactions.

   Both layers of the skin, epidermis (the upper layer) and dermis (the lower layer) are affected by UV rays. UVB radiation easily penetrates the epidermis and stimulates melanocytes, one of the cells types on the epidermis to produce a brownish pigment called melanin. Melanin protects the skin by absorbing and scattering ultraviolet rays. UVB rays are shorter and are responsible for the sunburns we feel when our skin is unprotected.        UVA goes deeper into the skin and cause major changes in the dermis. The collagenous constituents of dermis, responsible for the skin’s strength, show marked alterations in their composition. This radiation is responsible for the acceleration of the skin aging process by breaking down the collagen and elastin tissues. UVA rays cause skin tanning, age spots, and wrinkling of the skin, as well as contribute to the development of skin cancer.

    Sunscreen agents with SPF of 15 or greater are considered sun blocks because they may absorb more than 92% of UVB radiation.  Currently, there is no standard method to assess sunscreen agents for UVA protection. 

   Usually, it is recommended to use creams, lotions and mineral make-up with sunscreen capabilities to protect your skin against UVB radiation. However, sun UVB blockers constituents, such as the derivatives of cinnamon (cinnamic aldehyde, cinnamic oil, octyl methoxycinnamate), PABA ( para- aminobezoic acids) and esters or salicylates (octyl salicylates , triethanolamine salicylate) can  cause allergic reactions, irritation and might photosensitizes your skin. Titanium dioxide and Zinc oxide reflect radiation and reduce the chance of an allergic skin reaction. However, the researches have been shown that microscopic particles of titanium dioxide, also called nano-particles, may increase the formation of free-radicals (reactive oxygen species) onto the skin.

    Topical antioxidants can be effective in protecting against and reversing photodamage of the skin.  Researches have been shown that topical vitamin C and E, as well as  the mineral selenium can protect against sunburn, suntan and skin cancer. Only certain forms of these antioxidants are stable and active after absorption onto the skin. For example, vitamin C must be non-esterified and has to be acidic, vitamin E must be non-esterified and has to be the isomer, D-alpha tocopherol.   Selenium is active only when applied topically as L-selenomethionine. It was also shown that topical application is several times more effective than oral administration of these antioxidants. 

    Antioxidants found naturally in their milieu, such as herbal extracts or oils are most likely more active than the same isolated antioxidants. For example by looking for vitamin C you may find it in active form and substantial quantities in Rosehip seed extract or oil. Further Sea Buckthorn oil is extremely rich in carotenoids, vitamin E  and selenium. It has been already shown the important role of carotenoids in prevention and treatment of different cancer types due to their antioxidant capabilities. There is no wonder that the Russian cosmonauts have been using Sea Buckthorn base creams to protect themselves against cosmic radiation. Grape seed extract is rich in flavonoids and phytochemicals that have antioxidant properties, which some consider are even greater than vitamin C and vitamin E. The most valuable flavonoids in grape seed extract are proanthocyanidins, commonly called PCOs. The experts compare the therapeutic qualities of grape seed extract with those of Pycnogenol, a very powerful and expensive antioxidant used as an alternative treatment for heart and cancer disease.

  In conclusion: Be careful when select your sun blocker creams, lotions and make-up. They might not be appropriate for your skin type and they can trigger skin damage. For highly UV protection, I recommend the usage of skin care products based on complex combination of antioxidants. Not all antioxidants act in the same way to protect your skin.  The richer environment in antioxidants, the greater protection against free radicals (ROS) is expected.

                        The Skin’s Oxidative Stress And Sea Buckthorn Oil                                                            

 Our skin suffers daily from oxidative stress (action of active oxygen radicals). UV rays, pollution, smoking and internal stress are the principal factors in creating them. These free active radicals are highly reactive and toxic and can start a chain reaction under the skin's surface inducing damage. Antioxidants are compounds, which neutralize the free radicals using different mechanisms. The best known natural antioxidants are vitamin C, vitamin E, beta-carotene and selenium. Scientific studies have shown that topical vitamin C decrease the number of abnormal ‘sun burn’ cells and reduce UV damage to DNA.  As vitamin C protects the aqueous environment of the skin, vitamin E protects membranes from lipid (fatty acids) peroxidation being the first to absorb the free radicals.

Selenium activates two key enzymes, which have an important antioxidant role in the cells, protecting and repairing DNA. The carotenoids, are well known by their role in skin cancer prevention and treatment.

  The researches have shown that when these antioxidants are applied topically, their level in the epidermis and dermis is substantially increase thereby not only protecting the skin from acute and chronic photodamage, but also reversing the skin’s manifestations of photoageing.

  Vitamins E and C, beta-carotene, as well as selenium, are the principal micronutrient antioxidants that have been studied for their efficacy on reduction of oxidative stress and for their potential roles in the prevention of chronic diseases such as cancer, cardiovascular diseases and other disorders.

  Sea Buckthorn oil is a very rich and a good source of natural antioxidants. The benefit of Sea Buckthorn for skin protection/healing is enormous.  It is the only plant known so far which contains a large variety of antioxidants such as vitamin E and other vitamin E derivatives, vitamin C, beta carotene and other carotenes such as lycopene, and selenium.

 The medicinal value of Sea Buckthorn was depicted in Ancient Greek texts and classic Tibetan medicinal texts, including the Four books of Pharmacopoeia dated to the times of Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD). Hippophae rhamnoides L., commonly known as Sea Buckthorn, is a wild shrub growing at high altitude (1200-4500 meters) in adverse climatic conditions. Sea Buckthorn is a traditional plant of many European and Asian    countries. The popularity of Sea Buckthorn is increasing fast in US, due to a high demand for plants rich in constituents for food and cosmetic industry.  The healing qualities of Sea Buckthorn are highly appreciated. The oil can be used for different skin ailment such as: eczema, burns, wounds, UV rays skin damage.  Cosmetics and skin care products made with Sea Buckthorn are valued for their rejuvenating, restorative and anti-aging actions. These qualities are mainly due to its antioxidant capability.

Conclusion:   The skin’s oxidative stress is a very complex issue and is involved in many biochemical pathways.  You cannot be well protected by using only one antioxidant in your daily moisturizer.  Only a complex of antioxidants is capable to cease the major stress oxidation processes under your skin’s surface.

Plant Estrogens And Skin Aging

 Skin aging is a result of internal (genetic, metabolic and hormonal) and external (UV rays, pollution, chemicals) factors, which can induce modifications of skin thickness, skin moisture, collagen and elastin production.

 It was demonstrated that external factors, such as UV rays can irreversibly induce skin damage and wrinkles.

Internally, hormonal balance, especially estrogen balance has an important impact in skin aging. Due to hormonal menopausal changes women’s skin losses its elasticity and firmness becoming wrinkled. It has been shown that after menopause skin elasticity declines by 0.55% per year. In addition there is a relationship between the decrease of skin thickness, skin collagen and bone mineral density in the year following menopause.

 The effect of estrogen on skin is a relatively new area of research. Scientific studies showed that estrogen prevents skin aging by influencing skin thickness, skin wrinkling, collagen production and skin moisture.  In addition topical estrogen cream resulted in significant improvement in fine wrinkles as clinically evaluated by dermatologists.   Application with estradiol (type of estrogen) ointments onto skin of menopausal women resulted in thickening of the elastic fibers.

 The influence of estrogen (a steroidal hormone produced in both women and men with a wide variety of functions) on several body systems and especially reproductive tissues, nervous and cardiovascular systems and skeleton are well studied. Lately there is an increase in data showing that Hormone Replacement Therapy, HTR can increase the risk of coronary artery disease and breast cancer. This has contributed to careful consideration of the risks and benefits of systemic HTR.   This is the reason that HTR is not recommended to treat skin aging and topical estrogen cannot be used before conducting studies to find minimum concentration of estrogen compound that achieves the best local effect without hormonal side effects.

 Phytoestrogens, non steroidal plant compounds with estrogen like biological activity seem a promising alternative for skin aging treatment. In particular isoflavones- containing cosmetic creams were shown to improve skin dryness and wrinkles. Natural plant estrogens are easily metabolized and pass quickly through the body, unlike synthetic estrogens, which stay inside the body for up to two weeks, greatly increasing the danger of the development of abnormal cells.  

 In conclusion: If you choose to use an estrogen cream look carefully for natural   estrogen creams.  Ingredients containing plant estrogens can simulate the body's production of estrogen and  efficiently reduce skin aging.